Taylor K-2006 Pool Test Kit Review: Is It Worth It?

Pool test strips are convenient, inexpensive and perfectly useful for quick routine checks.

But there comes a point where “somewhere between these two colors” isn't quite enough.

If you're trying to work out why chlorine keeps disappearing, whether you really need more shock, or how much chemistry to adjust without overshooting, a good liquid test kit gives you considerably more information to work with.

That's where the Taylor K-2006 Pool Test Kit starts to make sense.

The standout feature is its FAS-DPD chlorine test. Instead of matching the chlorine level against increasingly similar shades of pink, you add reagent until the water changes from pink to clear and calculate the chlorine level from the number of drops used.

It takes longer than dipping a test strip.

But for pool owners who want more confidence in their water chemistry, we think that's a worthwhile trade.

Quick Verdict

The Taylor K-2006 is one of the liquid pool test kits we'd look at when basic strips no longer give you enough information.

Its biggest advantage is not simply that it tests more things. Plenty of inexpensive strips cover several water parameters.

The real reason to buy the K-2006 is its FAS-DPD test for free and combined chlorine.

Instead of deciding which printed color looks closest to your sample, you count drops until the chlorine test changes from pink to clear. That makes it particularly useful when you're troubleshooting algae, cloudy water, unusual chlorine demand or a pool where small chemistry adjustments matter.

It also tests pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness and cyanuric acid.

There are limitations. It costs considerably more than basic strips, takes longer to use and still includes some tests that depend on visual interpretation. The standard K-2006 also does not test salt concentration.

For quick everyday checks, we'd still keep test strips around.

For more detailed testing, the K-2006 is the one we'd reach for.

Best for: pool owners who want detailed chlorine testing, better troubleshooting and greater control over water chemistry.

Skip it if: you only want a quick weekly check and aren't interested in measuring drops or learning a more involved testing process.

Taylor K-2006 Specs

In short, the K-2006 covers the main chemistry readings a chlorine-pool owner needs, but the tests don't all work the same way. Chlorine, alkalinity and calcium hardness use drop-count methods, while pH and CYA still require some visual judgement. The standard kit does not measure salinity.

What Does the Taylor K-2006 Test?

The K-2006 gives you a much broader look at pool chemistry than a basic chlorine-and-pH kit.

It measures free chlorine, which tells you how much active sanitizer is available in the water, and combined chlorine, which helps show how much chlorine has reacted with contaminants.

Those two readings are especially useful when a pool smells strongly of chlorine but doesn't actually have enough effective sanitizer.

It also checks pH and includes acid/base demand reagents to help with pH adjustment.

Total alkalinity helps explain why pH may be stable or constantly drifting.

Calcium hardness matters for water balance and potential scaling or aggressive water.

And cyanuric acid (CYA) tells you how much stabilizer is protecting your chlorine from sunlight.

That last one is particularly useful if you regularly use stabilized chlorine tablets. CYA can slowly climb over time, and simply adding more chlorine without knowing the stabilizer level can make an already confusing pool problem even harder to diagnose.

You don't need to test every one of these readings at the same frequency. Our pool water testing schedule explains what to check daily, weekly and monthly, and when rain, heavy swimming or chemical treatments mean you should test again.

The FAS-DPD Chlorine Test Is the Main Reason to Buy It

This is the section we'd pay most attention to when choosing between the K-2006 and a cheaper liquid kit.

With ordinary DPD color matching, you add the reagent and compare the resulting shade against printed chlorine standards.

That works.

But once the colors start looking similar, deciding whether you're at 3 ppm, 4 ppm or somewhere in between can become subjective.

The K-2006 approaches chlorine differently.

You add FAS-DPD powder to the water sample. If free chlorine is present, the sample turns pink.

Then you add the titrating reagent one drop at a time until the sample becomes clear.

You count the drops instead of trying to match the chlorine color.

For a 10 mL water sample, each drop represents 0.5 ppm chlorine.

So if it takes seven drops to turn the sample clear:

7 × 0.5 ppm = 3.5 ppm free chlorine

If you want finer resolution, the 25 mL sample uses 0.2 ppm per drop.

That ability to choose between faster routine testing and a finer measurement is one of the things we like most about the K-2006.

Why This Matters When You're Troubleshooting a Pool

A test kit becomes more valuable when you're trying to make a decision, not simply collect a number.

Imagine your above-ground pool has started going cloudy.

A strip tells you chlorine is somewhere around the lower end of the acceptable range.

Do you add more chlorine?

Is the stabilizer too high?

Is there combined chlorine?

Did yesterday's shock treatment actually leave the chlorine where you think it did?

This is where better testing can save you from treating the wrong problem.

If you're dealing with a genuinely green pool, for example, knowing the actual free chlorine and CYA readings is more useful than repeatedly adding products because the water still looks bad.

Our How to Clear a Green Above-Ground Pool guide explains the full cleanup process, but accurate testing should come before blindly adding more chemicals.

Is the Taylor K-2006 More Accurate Than Test Strips?

For several of its tests, it gives you more precise and repeatable information than basic strips.

But we wouldn't describe the entire K-2006 as though every result is laboratory-perfect.

That's not how it works.

The FAS-DPD chlorine test is the clearest upgrade because you're measuring a drop-count endpoint instead of interpreting chlorine shades.

Total alkalinity and calcium hardness also use titration.

But pH still involves matching a color, and the CYA test relies on watching a black dot disappear as the sample becomes cloudy.

So there is still some human judgement involved.

That's worth knowing before spending considerably more than you would on a bottle of test strips.

The K-2006 isn't a digital laboratory in a blue case.

It's a much more capable manual pool test kit, particularly when chlorine measurement is important.

Taylor K-2006 vs K-2005: What's the Difference?

These two kits look very similar because they largely are.

According to Taylor, the meaningful difference is the chlorine test.

In practical terms, we'd choose the K-2006 when chlorine measurement is the reason you're upgrading. If you're comfortable matching chlorine colors, the K-2005 gives you essentially the same supporting water-balance tests.

If the FAS-DPD chlorine test is the reason you're upgrading from strips or a basic liquid kit, the K-2006 is the version we'd choose.

See Taylor K-2006 on Amazon

Taylor K-2006 vs Pool Test Strips

We wouldn't throw your test strips away just because you buy the K-2006.

They solve different problems.

Our EASYTEST 7-Way Pool Test Strips are much quicker when you simply want to check the water before swimming or make sure nothing obvious has moved badly out of range.

Dip, wait and compare.

The K-2006 takes more time because you're measuring samples and adding individual reagents.

But when a strip gives you a questionable reading or you're about to make a meaningful chemical adjustment, the extra effort starts to make sense.

For us, the best setup is:

test strips for convenient routine checks and a good liquid kit for confirmation and troubleshooting.

That is especially useful when chlorine, CYA or recurring water-quality problems don't make sense from the strip readings alone.

What's Included in the Taylor K-2006?

The standard K-2006 comes in a hard storage case with the testing reagents, 2000 Series comparator, water-sample equipment, instructions and Taylor's Watergram water-balance calculator.

The standard version uses 0.75 oz reagent bottles.

That makes it more substantial than a simple two-bottle chlorine/pH kit without making it as large as Taylor's service kits intended for much heavier testing.

The included instructions matter.

There are enough reagents in this kit that we would not recommend opening it and trying to remember test sequences from an online summary.

Use Taylor's instructions for the exact reagent order, sample quantity and endpoint for each test.

Once you've performed each test a few times, the process becomes much less intimidating.

Is the K-2006 Difficult to Use?

It's more involved than a strip, but we wouldn't call it difficult.

There is simply more procedure to follow.

For chlorine, you need to measure the correct sample, add the FAS-DPD powder, swirl, add titrant and count drops.

For alkalinity and hardness, you're also watching for a defined color change while counting drops.

pH is faster because you're using the comparator.

CYA is probably the test that takes the most practice because you're judging when the black dot at the bottom of the viewing tube disappears.

If you want the fastest possible routine, this isn't the kit.

If you're willing to spend a few extra minutes to better understand what the water is doing, the process is manageable.

Five Things That Make Liquid Testing More Reliable

The quality of the kit matters, but so does how you use it.

Take the water sample from below the surface rather than scooping the warm surface layer. Taylor's instructions recommend sampling around 18 inches below the water surface.

Avoid taking a sample right beside a return jet or immediately after pouring chemicals into that area.

When using a drop test, hold the reagent bottle vertically. Tilting it can change the size of the drops and affect a drop-count result.

Use good natural light for tests that depend on color. Chlorine is the big FAS-DPD exception here, but pH still depends on reading the comparator properly.

And don't try to stretch old reagents indefinitely. If the chemistry inside the bottle has deteriorated, a precise testing method won't rescue the result.

Don't Store This Kit in a Baking-Hot Pool Shed

This is an easy mistake.

A liquid test kit is only useful while its reagents are in good condition.

Taylor recommends storing its reagents at a consistent 36–85°F (2–29°C), keeping them out of direct sunlight and away from pool-treatment chemicals.

That means a storage box sitting in a shed that becomes extremely hot all summer may not be ideal.

Keep the caps tightly closed and don't mix replacement reagents from unrelated manufacturers simply because the bottle looks similar.

Taylor recommends replacing reagents after about a year; if you test seasonally, starting each season with fresh reagents is a sensible approach. Replace any reagent that has passed its best-by date.

For a kit at this price, looking after the reagents properly is part of getting your money's worth.

Can You Use the Taylor K-2006 for a Saltwater Pool?

Yes.

A saltwater pool is still a chlorine pool, so free chlorine, combined chlorine, pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness and CYA are all relevant.

The important limitation is that the standard K-2006 does not measure salinity.

So if you use a saltwater chlorine generator, you'll still need a separate salt test or salinity meter.

Taylor also sells a K-2006-SALT, which adds a sodium-chloride test to the K-2006 chemistry tests.

Whether paying extra for that version makes sense depends on whether you want one kit to handle both normal water balance and the salt reading.

Our guide to using saltwater in an above-ground pool explains why the required salt concentration depends on the chlorinator you're using.

K-2006, K-2006C or K-2006-SALT?

For most home above-ground pool owners, we'd start with the standard K-2006.

The K-2006C uses the same core testing methods but comes with larger 2 oz reagent bottles. That makes more sense for somebody testing much more frequently or maintaining multiple pools.

The K-2006-SALT adds sodium-chloride testing for saltwater pools.

So the choice is less complicated than the similar model names make it look:

K-2006: standard home-use FAS-DPD kit.

K-2006C: same core testing with larger reagent bottles.

K-2006-SALT: K-2006 chemistry testing plus salt.

Don't buy the larger or salt version automatically. Pay for the additional capability only if you'll actually use it.

Who Should Buy the Taylor K-2006?

We think the K-2006 makes the most sense once you're past the stage of simply asking whether the pool has “some chlorine in it.”

It's particularly useful if you adjust your own pool chemistry, want more precise chlorine readings or regularly troubleshoot water problems.

It's also a strong fit if you use stabilized chlorine products and want to keep a closer eye on CYA, or if you've had recurring algae or cloudy-water problems where approximate test-strip readings aren't giving you enough information.

For somebody who enjoys understanding exactly what is happening with their pool chemistry, the extra testing steps probably won't feel like a burden.

They are the reason you're buying the kit.

Who Should Skip It?

We would not tell every above-ground pool owner to spend this much on water testing.

If you have a small seasonal pool and only want quick routine checks, a quality set of test strips may be enough.

The same applies if you know you won't actually use a liquid kit.

A more capable test kit sitting unopened in a shed is less useful than a basic strip you consistently use.

And if you specifically need salinity measurements, don't buy the standard K-2006 expecting it to measure salt.

You need a separate salt test or the appropriate salt version.

The Biggest Weakness Isn't the Price

Price is an obvious downside compared with strips.

But we'd argue that the bigger question is whether you're prepared to use what you're paying for.

The K-2006 is most valuable when you use the information to make better chemistry decisions.

If you're going to perform only a chlorine check once every couple of weeks, much of the kit will be wasted.

If you're going to track chlorine, pH, alkalinity and CYA, investigate unusual readings and confirm the water before dosing, the value proposition makes much more sense.

That distinction matters more to us than simply calling it expensive or cheap.

Our Final Take

The Taylor K-2006 Pool Test Kit is not the simplest way to test an above-ground pool.

That's exactly why we'd buy it.

Test strips win on speed and convenience.

The K-2006 wins when you want more information and, most importantly, a chlorine test that doesn't require you to decide which similar shade of pink looks closest.

Its FAS-DPD drop test is the reason we'd choose the K-2006 over the K-2005 for a pool owner who is specifically upgrading for better chlorine testing.

We also like that the same kit covers pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness and CYA, so you're not buying a specialist chlorine kit and then needing several other products to understand the rest of the water.

Just don't expect every test to be completely objective. pH still uses color matching, CYA takes practice, and liquid reagents need proper storage.

For fast routine checks, we'll continue to recommend EASYTEST 7-Way Pool Test Strips.

For owners who want to go deeper into their water chemistry, the Taylor K-2006 is the stronger next step.

For more help choosing chlorine, shock, test kits and other water-care products, visit our Chemicals & Water Care section.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Taylor K-2006 good for above-ground pools?

Yes. The K-2006 tests the same core water-chemistry parameters needed for most chlorine above-ground pools, including free and combined chlorine, pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness and cyanuric acid.

What does the Taylor K-2006 test?

The standard K-2006 tests free and combined chlorine using FAS-DPD, plus pH with acid/base demand, total alkalinity, calcium hardness and cyanuric acid.

What is the difference between the Taylor K-2005 and K-2006?

The main difference is chlorine testing. The K-2005 uses DPD color matching, while the K-2006 uses a FAS-DPD drop test that changes from pink to clear. The other main water-balance tests are essentially the same.

Does the Taylor K-2006 test salt?

No. The standard K-2006 does not measure salt concentration. Taylor's K-2006-SALT adds a sodium-chloride test, or you can use a separate salinity test with the standard kit.

Is the Taylor K-2006 more accurate than pool test strips?

The K-2006 provides more precise drop-count testing for several parameters, particularly chlorine. However, not every test in the kit is a drop test. pH still uses color comparison and the CYA test relies on visual interpretation.

Is the Taylor K-2006 difficult for beginners?

It takes more time to learn than pool test strips, but the included instructions walk through each test. The FAS-DPD chlorine test becomes straightforward once you are comfortable measuring the sample and counting drops.

How should I store Taylor K-2006 reagents?

Keep the reagents tightly closed, out of direct sunlight and away from pool-treatment chemicals. Taylor recommends storing them between 36°F and 85°F (2°C and 29°C). Replace reagents after about a year, start each season with fresh reagents if you test seasonally, and replace anything that has passed its best-by date.

Can I use the Taylor K-2006 with a saltwater pool?

Yes. It can test chlorine and the main water-balance parameters in a saltwater pool. The standard K-2006 does not test salinity, so you'll need a separate salt test or the K-2006-SALT version for that measurement.